Choose the Right Carbides

Choose the Right Carbides
Choosing the right carbides will help give you better handling

There are multiple factors that can determine how your snowmobile will handle.  The one that you might change the most often is your sled’s traction. Choosing the right carbides is a crucial component of setting up your sled’s traction correctly. Choose the wrong ones and you will be in for a not so pleasant ride and run the risk of getting in an accident. Getting the right wear bars goes beyond choosing the right brand.  Different sleds and riders will require varying lengths of carbides with different degree cutting angles.

A common misconception about snowmobile carbides is that longer is always better. This, however, is absolutely not the case. When the length of the carbide is too long, the snowmobile skis will tend to dig in more than it should while you are cornering. This can cause the back end of the sled to break free and come around too quickly. For the average rider with a short track, a 4” carbide is all that is needed. A sharp set of 4” carbides will generally handle a sled with a 121” in track with 96 or less studs or up to 1” lugs on the track ridden at moderate speeds through the corners.  For most trail riders, the 4″ will most likely be the best all around carbide.

When more studs are added and/or the length of your track lugs increase, you will want to add longer carbides. With the added traction in the back and too short of carbides, the sled will tend to “push” through on the corners. The skis will not get enough bite to change the direction of the sled fast enough in a corner. A 6” carbide will usually be good for a sled that has a 136” track or shorter with 1 ¼” or less lugs on the track. A 121” track with more than 96 studs may also require a longer carbide length. A 6” carbide length is good for the intermediate riders who occasionally push their sleds to the limits.

When the sled is maxed out with studs, and/or has a 144” or longer track with paddles, an 8” or longer carbide is acceptable. Also, if the rider is more than 200 pounds and rides aggressively, an 8” or longer could be necessary. The harder that you ride your sled, the more carbide that you will need to get around the corners safely.

Another misconception about carbide length is that the longer the carbide, the longer it will last. This really is not true because the full length of the carbide is making contact no matter the overall length. A 4” will usually wear at the same rate as an 8” or even 10” carbide. To get a wear bar that will last longer, you will want to find one with a larger diameter host bar.

The degree that the carbide is cut is also important to the longevity. A 60 degree cut will give you more bite when the carbides are new, but because more of the weight is focused on the point, it will wear out faster. A 90 degree carbide will not give you as much bite when new, but will last much longer and give you the best traction in the long run. A 60 degree carbide should really only be used in race conditions where the sled is being pushed to the limits over a short period of time.

Darting is an issue that a lot of snowmobilers face. Longer carbides can sometimes solve this issue, but it usually is not the correct solution. Brands like Woody’s and Stud Boy have developed wear bars that have two rows of carbide per wear bar. The theory is that these wear rods will carve out their own paths instead of diving into a singular path that was already created, which can cause darting. Darting is not always caused by the carbides, though. Your ski pressure and ski alignment can be adjusted to help solve darting as well.Woody's Dooly/Stud Boy Deuce

These, of course, are just general guidelines to follow to find the right carbides. Applications will vary due to size of the rider, the aggressiveness of the rider, the snowmobile’s setup (number of studs, track and lug length, and ski pressure) and type of terrain that you will be riding on. For more information and recommendations, you can contact Dennis Kirk’s Tech team at



Hi, Bob. If you ride on the trails a lot and like to ride aggressive at least some of the time, I would recommend a 6″ carbide. With really aggressive riding, you could step up to a 7.5 or 8″. The Stud Boy Shaper bars and Woody’s wear bars are always solid options.

I have a 2003 firecat f7, I do some aggressive riding, 128″ track, studded, how long of carbides should I get, need new ones

Depending on how many studs you have, you could go with anything from 6″ to 10″ of carbide. Since you ride aggressively, an 8″ carbide would probably be a good choice if you can handle the harder steering when you do ride at slower speeds.

Hello Ryan, I just picked up a 1998 vmax 700sx. I do mostly trail riding and I enjoy pushing the sled a little bit. The track is studded, I was wondering what a good carbide length would be for me.

Hey Jaysson, you could probably go with an 8″ carbide to give you a really good bite in the corners. A 6″ carbide would most likely work as well with your short track.

Not sure if I should go with 4″ or 6″ carbide length, I have 600 E-tec MXZ Adrenalin 120″ track no studs, I do ride hard and am around 240#, where I ride is all groomed trails and lots of tight turns.

I have a Polaris 800 with a 144″ track no studs but I am a bout 300lbs. what would be a good carbide for me, I mostly trail ride unless i find a field to play in. I am not that aggressive of a rider on the corners.

Hey Kevin, normally an 8″ carbide would be a good choice for your sled, size and riding terrain. You might be able to get away with a 6″ since you don’t corner too aggressively. Check out Woody’s or Stud Boy.

hi i have a 2015 arctic cat m8000 153″ i ride backcountry and in the mountains. im going to buy a new set of skies and carbides im thinking “SLP powder pro” or “C&A pro boondocking extreme” but i have no idea on what type of Carbides to buy. can you please help me?

Hey Jonas. If you do mostly back country riding, you can certainly get away with a 90° 6″ carbide. The Woody’s Trail Blazer carbides would be a solid choice for that. Hope this gets you in the right direction.

I think you would be happy with any of the 3. Personally, I don’t think you can go wrong with the Powder Pro’s because they have been proven. I think they do everything pretty well, floating & cutting. I’ve been hearing a lot of good things about the Powder Hounds too and the C&A BX seem to be a good choice for aggressive back country riding.

My 15 year old son weighs 120 pounds and rides a 2001 Polaris 500 XC. We primarily ride groomed trails in Upstate NY that can be twisty and do have icy steeps. His track is not extended and it does not have studs. I would grade him as an intermediate rider that pushes his sled on occasion. I am looking to install a set of Woodys Slim Jim Dooly carbides, but need some advise on the carbide length. Should I go with 4″ or 6″? Thanks!

Hey Rich, I would suggest going with the 4′ Dooly carbides. The 6′ Dooly could make the sled a bit too hard to turn and could even be too much bite for a 500 with a 121′ track. You should get the bite that you are looking for from with the 4′. Hope this helps, Ryan

I picked up an 86 El Tigre 6000 last year and rode it only a few times. Planning on some maintenance this summer/fall to get it ready for a lot more use this winter. So far I’ve done some basic clean up and tune up work but next up is the carbides and track. I’m going to get the track replaced with a stock one, no studs. Would you recommend new 4″ or 6″ carbide?

I have a 2015 xf 9000 sno pro limited with 9″ shapers and 192 1.45 gold diggers and I am happy with this setup. I just picked up a 2016 zr 9000 137 limited for my wife, I was thinking of running either 192 1.325 gold diggers with a 7.5 shaper duce, or 192 1.45 gold diggers with a 9″ shaper duce, what would you recomend?

Hey Brian, the recommended stud length for that 1.25″ track would be the 1.325″ studs. You want the stud to be 3/8″ above the tallest lug. Any longer and you risk bending studs over or even ripping some out over time. But if you are having good luck on your sled with the longer studs, you can get away with the 1.45.

If she rides aggressive and has rode your sled and can turn the skis with the 9’s, you could go with them. Otherwise the 7.5’s might be better because she will be able to turn the skis easier through corners, especially if she lets off quite a bit in the corners.

Hey Ryan,
I am a 200lb rider riding an 800 rev chassis summit with a 151″ track 3″ paddles, mostly ride off trail Tahoe boondocking . I am going to go with a C&A BX, didn’t know if I should go 6″ shaper or 7.5″ shaper carbide. What are your thoughts?

Hey Casey, if you’re mostly in deep, loose snow you can get away with the 6″ carbides since you won’t be worrying about “bite”

Hey Ryan I am a 200 lb rider on a 2011 yamaha apex xtx with tilted rear track( 121 flat but total length is 144) I ride in upstate ny a little on the aggressive side but not to crazy currently my track is not studded. How many studs do you recommend and what size carbides should I run? Thanks

Hi Ernie. 171 studs with an 8″ carbide will be able to get you hooked up really well for decently aggressive riding. If you only push your sled a little bit or are not always on hard packed trails I would only go with 152 and a 6″ carbide.

Hey Rene, if your track is heavily studded and you do a lot of lake riding, I would probably suggest going with an 8″ carbide. That will give you the bite you need on hard pack and icy conditions so you’re not pushing through corners.

I have a 1994 polaris 500 i just purchaced it has 190 studded track with easy steer carbides . What sould i expect with the handleing .

Hey Gary, you can expect to get really good hookup, even in icy conditions if all of the studs are in good shape. You may experience a little push through the turns depending on the length and condition of the carbides.

Just picked up a 07 Phazer Mountain Lite for my wife. Looking for a new set of carbides for riding 75% trail and the other 25% is off trail in the light fluff. Track is a 144 with no studs. We ride in Washington State, so the snow is wet at times, but we live in an area that has pretty dry snow. Thanks for the help.

I have a 2015 Polaris rush pro-s 800 and was wondering what would be my best options for new carbides. I do mostly groomed trail with some frozen lake, somewhat aggressive riding. My stocks are wearing out and we’re finally getting snow so I would say this constitutes an emergency!

Thanks, I was thinking the 6 in. Would you recommend the original dooly, the slim jims, shaper blocks? So many questions so little time! I love cornering and I hate darting. Any good choice for the best of both worlds?

I have personally had really good luck using one dooly and one regular carbide to eliminate darting, but that can get a bit spendy since the doolys are sold separately and the single carbides are sold in a pair. I think for your sled you would also be fairly happy with the Woody’s Flat Top ACE carbides.

Great advice here. I have 2 sleds, a Polaris 2015 Switchback Pro S (1.25″) and a Pro X (1.75″). Both without studs. We do mostly trail riding, with some lake and ditch riding mixed in. I initially want to go with 8″ but I’m gathering that 6″ may be a good mix of cornering and not being to aggressive with back of sled whipping around. Do you have a brand and length recommendation? Not a super aggressive rider. Thank you

Hey Joe, I think you would be happy with the Woody’s Trail Blazer IV 6″ carbides. If you want a little more of an aggressive bite in loose snow, check out the Woody’s Flat Top ACE or StudBoy Shaper bars, both 6″

That’s the one i was looking at, but I was also liking the dooly on one side with trail blazer on the other as you brought up in previous post.

Ryan…I have a 92 Arctic Cat Prowler with studs. I weigh 240# and ride mostly trails on the aggressive side of average. Do you have a recommendation for carbides?

Hey Tim, You would probably be good with the either the 6″ Woody’s Trail Blazer IV or the 6″ Stud Boy X-Caliber III carbides.

Ryan I recently purchased a 2015 600 Polaris Adventure 60th Anniversary model with a136 non Studded track. It will primarily be risen by my wife age 58 on groomed trails in WI. She weighs about 130 is not an aggressive sledder. But we are planning on adding a lock and ride rear seat which can take up to 120lbs additional rider.
I am also age 58 weighing in at 225 lb and mostly a trail rider. We did ride with another couple in the UP of MI and did 170 miles in one day at speeds between 30 and 80 mph. We had run single carbides on our 2004 Polaris 600 Classic Touring with 136 inch track and 96 1 1/4 studs. We hated the darting so went to dual 4″ carbides and were very pleased. But now I need to outfit my new sled.
What carbides do you recommend?
Thanks Dan

Thanks for the suggestion of the 4″ dual carbide in regards to my question. What is the advantage of the use of single bar on one side and a dually on the other side?
and if I would go to that option what length carbides should I use?

The point of the doollies is that they do not “track” in the grooves of single runner carbides. Most sleds can get away with only having it on one side as it will cut its own path. The 4″ should still be good.

Ryan, I picked up a 2016 Switchback Pro S 800 and typically ride very aggressively on the trails, I weigh 150 lbs, because of my weight are 8 ” shaper bars overkill or would there still be an advantage for control and cornering with an aggressive riding style vs the 6 ” We didn’t get the typical March dusting this year so I have not had a chance to ride it yet, I cannot wait to try out the AXYS Chassis!! At least days are now getting shorter!!

Hey Casey. Without studs, 8″ carbides can be quite a bit, especially at your weight. I think you will be happy with the 6″ carbides. Hopefully we get that early snowfall this year so you can get out on your new sled!

I will probably ride the whole next season prior to deciding if the picks are an absolute necessity. Do you have any experience with the new Pro-File Shorty Runners by HRP?? They sound pretty amazing but there are not many testimonials as they just came out.

I personally haven’t been able to try them, but they look interesting. If you go with them, check back in and let us know how they perform. It’s good to see some new ideas still coming out.

I am brand new to sledding and recently purchased a 1995 Indy Polaris 500. It has moderate picks in the track and the carbides need to be replaced. I trail ride and don’t push the machine to hard. Suggestions?

Hey so I ride a Polaris pro s switchback 2015 I just got a straigjine performance pipe and tuner I got 144 gold digger woodys studs . I like to ride fast and hard and normally on all trails . What would be the best set up for me ? I weigh about 200 pounds

Hey Dustin. With 144 studs, a 6″ carbide is recommended. If you want the most bite up front, you could step up to an 8″ but you may find that your hookup won’t be as balanced from front to back.

So what’s the best 6″ carbide for trail riding and a little pow pow fun? I’m planning on buying the cna xcs skis and I just want something that holds the trail hard . Do I got with a single a Dooley or one of each like u do?

The Stud Boy Shaper bars are a pretty solid choice. They will give you a little extra bite with the side of the runner to help turn in the looser stuff. The Woody’s Flat Top Ace bar is also a pretty good too. I would try without the Dooley first. You can always pick that up later if you think that you need it.

Sounds good I will give the stud boys a shot much appreciated . It’s awesome to be able to get some solid advice before making a purchase

just picked up 2006 saber cat studded track it has the stock wear bars that are right and left dooly’s woody’s recomends 6 inch single carbide for my sled but i like the dual runner idea wha do you think

I have a 1994 VMAX XT 600 with no Studs on the track. I drive fairly quickly and aggressively (within reason LOL)
When I am going on the trails, I fin my skis following other people’s trails,
I am not too interested in the Studs on the track, but I am 260lbs and I keep the track on the track…LOL So the question isI have been told Dual Carbides should not be used on a Sled without Studs, others have said it is ok, I see StudBoy has a shaperBar version that might work but they don’t make it for my Sled. So what would your recommendation be for Carbides ?

Hey David, the dual runners are perfectly ok to use without studs. If that is the route you choose, I would start by using just one dual runner and one regular wear rod. Unfortunately, I don’t think that they make a dual runner for your sled. To go this route, you would need to also get aftermarket skis. Darting and tracking can sometimes be caused by too much ski pressure. You could try tinkering with that to see if that helps as well. Here is an article on how to do that-

Hi Ryan, I have a 2009 Ski Doo GSX 500 SS with 5.7 Pilot skis with dual carbides on them, and studs down the center of the track. Need to replace the carbides. Trail rider not too aggressive but want something to bite in the corners.. I am around 240# any suggestions would be great. Thanks!!

Hi Ryan, I have a 2009 Ski Doo GSX 500 SS, 96 studs down the middle, my skis are 5.7 Pilot with dual carbides on them and I need to replace them any suggestions? I am a trail rider not too aggressive i am 6’1 around 240# .

Hi Ryan I have an 04 venom with no studs. I havent ridden it yet but it needs carbides. Mainly for trail riding somewhat aggresively. I have some studs kicking around that I may pop in just for kicks. There isnt enough to mention. I assume 4″ carbides would be enough but wonder if 6″ would be better. Also single or duals?

Hi Shane, 4″ would probably be good enough for your sled. I would start with singles and see how they ride. If your sled does follow other tracks, you can then try the duals.

Ryan….Western NY trail rider…semi-aggressive, occassional field riding in deep ungroomed stuff. I weigh 150.
Sled is 2008 CAT T570 (144″ track…studded -do not know how many, but studded from the dealer). I want to buy new carbides…I sort of think this sled comes stock w/4″ carbides….Do you think I’d benefit from 6″ carbides? Any recommendations? Thanks, Sandi

Hey Ryan,
I have a 2003 MXZ 800 with a 121″ track with 136 studs. I run C&A Pro RZ skis. Carbides need replaced soon. I’m getting ALOT of darting and am looking at going to Woody’s Dooly carbides. Question I’m thinking 6″ since I have 136 studs, but i’m worried about it being even more “tippy” in the corners than it already is.Any recommendations?

Without any studs, you could go for 4″ carbides if you ride in mostly powder, softer snow. If you ride a lot of harder pack trails, you may want to bump up to a 6″ or 7.5″ carbide.

Hi. I have a 2015 SkiDoo GSX LE 600 HO eTec 2 stroke. No studs. I need new carbides. I ride groomed trails in Michigan. Do I purchase single or dual carbides? And why?

Hi there,
I am Christmas shopping for my boyfriend. He has a 2014 or 2015 Polaris Assault 800 with a 144 2 inch paddle track not studded. He rides in northern Maine and was talking about carbides that you can turn well on tar with? After reading through this I was not sure what would be best. If you could recommend anything that would be great. He’s a rough/crazy rider and weighs about 180 pounds. Also, his skis/carbides are stalk still. Just wondering if I got new carbides if they would fit the stock skis or if he’d need new skis as well.
Thank you!

Ryan I just bought a used 2006 Yamaha Nytro box stock plus 98 studs all in the center of the track it needs new studs (I think) it dosn’t seem to steer well. I’m not feeling any darting. What should I put on it. I love to do a little hard trail riding on groomed trails

Do you have a carbide setup for a 1970 moto ski ms-18… it is a ice fishing sled that will often be on ice with little or no snow… thanks

good morning, i have a 91 polaris indy trail deluxe,all standard i need to replace skages,want to go with carbide ? ride in mostly fresh powder and some groomed trails,wich one do you think is best for mine,do ride sort of aggresive ?, thanks paul

Hey Ryan,
Millionth carbide question here for you —
I’ve got a 99 Yamaha Mountain Max 600, 136″ track, with 1.75 paddles… It’s been piped and clutched, so it’s pretty durn quick for a 600. I’m 180, and ride fairly aggressive — I’m really debating between 6 & 8-in carbides. Thoughts on which size I should go with?

If you ride mostly trails, I would say go with the 8″ carbides, but if you’re out in the powder most of the time you probably only need the 6.

I’ve got a 2007 Cat F1000. Moderately studded but it’s had some mods upping power. This has been handed to my wife this year from me and so far so good but she has a hard time in corners. Thinking about maybe going to a 6″ carbide. Am I on the right track with that or what’s your suggestion.

Hi Scott. If she is not really give the sled throttle through the corners, a 6″ carbide would make it easier to steer. If she does ride aggressively, though, you could run the risk of the back end pushing through corners. You could also try adjusting the ski pressure to see if that will lighten up the steering a bit, while still getting the bite you need.

Hi Ryan…. I just bought a 2011 Polaris rush pro r and it doesn’t handle the corners on the trail great any recommendations to change out carbides to or add… many thanks!!!! I am about 150lbs and ride trails…

Hey Amy, if the sled is pushing through the corners, you could try using a 6″ carbide with either the Stud Boy Shaper bars or the Woody’s Flat Top Ace bars.

Hey Ryan, I just picked up a 05 Polaris classic 600, somewhere around 100 some studs, not exactly sure, dual carbides are pretty worn down, what would be a good not a real aggressive rider , about 220#, what would be a good replacement

I’ve got 2016 renegade 800r x package with 137 ice ripper track. I am considering swapping tracks to ripsaw 2 with 96 studs down the middle. I would like to put more aggressive carbides on . What’s your recommendation as I also have pilot 5.7 with adjustable runners? Thanks

Hey Ryan, I have a 2007 Yamaha Attak GT, my carbides are shot and I’m not sure what to get. This is a heavy sled that is hard to steer and I am only about 115 lbs. This is just for trail riding in Wisconsin.


Hi Karly, a 4″ carbide should be all you need for moderate trail riding. The Stud Boy 4.5″ Shaper Bar will also give you good bite in the corners.

Hi, I have. 1998 mxz 583, it has doolys on it now and i got it used, they are worn and obviosly push alot now but and wondering what to put on, would be for mostly trail riding but sometimes icy , it has no studs and dont know what to get. As o dont want any darting either?

Hey Darren, the 4″ Doolys should be a good fit for what you are looking for. IF you want a little more aggressive bite up front, you could step up to a 6″

2016 Cat ZR8000 limited, studded by dealer per Cat recommendations, I weigh 240lbs, sled was darting this weekend in NY on icy packed trails. I have the stock carbides which I think are dual staggered, what carbides would you recommend?

Can slim jim Dooley’s Rob top speed I just put them on a pro R 800 Switchback and can’t get above 86 miles an hour with the factory ones that don’t like crazy I can hit a hundred just wondering what you think maybe too much carbide maybe I should have a 4-inch carbides or maybe I should have went with just Dooley’s instead of slim jim dually

Hey Jason, any dual runners will create extra friction and will slow you down a bit. Too counteract it, you can try reducing the ski pressure a bit so when you are on the throttle, they will lift a bit more and you will still get the bite in the corners when you let off and the front end dives. You most likely will not be able to get all of the top speed back, but you can get a bit more if your sled’s suspension can be adjusted.

So I have a 2005 Yamaha RX1 Mountain. I ride a lot of hills, trails, and boondocking in the rocky mountains. When I’m on the trails our average speed is probably around 65-75 mph but there are a lot of curves so your constantly in and out of the throttle. I’m wondering what carbide would treat me well on the trails but not hold me back climbing mountains or in the trees. The steepest hill i’ll probably actually attempt is a 1,000 vertical feet in 1/4 mile. I’m not sure how carbides really effect climbing or if they do. I’m a big guy also (6’4″ 290 lbs) What do you think will work best for me?

I have a 2001 skidoo Mxz 600 with dual carbites. I am in the 260# range and was wondering what a good carbite would be. I do ride hard and ride groomed trails.

Hi, I just picked up a 2003 MXZ 550F and was wondering rather I should get 4″ or 6″ carbides, and rather I should get 60 or 90 degree,

I recently purchased a 2003 mountain cat 800 with the 151″ track. Wondering what the recommended carbide length would be? has “finger style” track on it and will be doing mostly Minnesota riding with the occasional trip to Michigan.

I bought a 1992
Ski-Doo formula. It needs new carbides but not sure if it has original skis or not, was wondering how I find the right runners. Measure the distance between bolts?

Hi Ryan,
I’ve got an 05 skidoo gsx 121 800 studded down the middle with dual carbides. I ride pretty aggressively on and off trail. Got any recommendations for carbides? Thanks

Hi Ryan I just bought a 2017 Zr 9000 sno pro 137″ with 144 stud boy studs it came with stock 4″ dually carbides and its pushing bad in the corners I know its heavier than my zr 6000 but its really different. I mostly trail ride but some roads to get from trail to trail what do you recommend to help the pushing I’m 180lbs and 5″7 also it only has 350 miles and has ate up my right side carbide already which is strange but snow hasn’t been the greatest yet. any suggestions? Thank You!

Hey Rob, with that stud setup, you would probably benefit from going with at least 6″ carbides to help give your front the bite it needs to compensate for the hookup ability in the rear.

I have a 2005 Ski Doo MXZ 600 H.O. Renegade. The track is 136″ with no studs and has 1.25″ lugs. The dealer just put on 4″ carbides (dual on each ski) without talking to me and I am wondering if this is the right choice. I’m a 200# trail rider and am not overly aggressive but I want to make sure I have control thru the corners since our trails tend to get icy there.

Hey Brian, a 4″ setup with dual runners and no studs is pretty common. A 6″ setup is about as much as you would want to go, but could be needed if your sled pushes through corners.

Just bought a new Switchback Pro S 800. 136″ Ripsaw track with 1.25″ lugs. I’m 225lbs and trail ride pretty aggressively in upper Michigan. Woody’s recommends 144 1.325″ Gold Digger studs. Are those long enough? Also, the sled came stock with little 4″ carbides. Obviously I need more. I’m thinking the Shaper 6″ or 7.5″ inch carbides. I don’t really see the 7.5″ making that big of a difference over the 6″. What would u recommend? Thanks.

Hi !!
I’m new to all this stuff !!

I have a 2008 polaris iq cruiser turbo, and need new carbide runners

I’m about 200 lbs … Medium aggressive rider … 136 track no studs and no intention to get studs .. And as far as I can tell, the runners are double on the skis..

Can you recommend the right length to get ??
And please forgive me if I asked things with wrong terms !! Haha

I bought standard wear rods once I recieved them I came to to realization that there are no raised areas on the bottom how will these preform

Hey Doug. It depends on your sled and riding style. If they are just going on a vintage snowmobile, they will probably be fine. If you ride at moderate to fast speeds on trails, though, you will want carbides.

i currently have a 2004 articat t660 turbo with Dooly’s. dont care for them. i thinking of replacing them with single carbide. have about 90 studs on the track. what should i get?

Ryan, I just upgraded to a 2012 Arctic Cat F1100 (non-turbo). It currently has dual carbides on it (not sure of length) and i’m having to slow WAY DOWN on the trail turns. I believe it’s a 129″ track, thinking I should switch out to 6″ single carbide? I only ride groomed trails and wouldn’t say i’m aggressive. I’ll ride at a decent clip on the straighter sections, but definitely take it easier in the corners. Thanks for your time!!

Hey Amanda. You could definitely switch out to a single 6″ carbide. The Stud Boy 6″ Shaper Bars or the Woody’s Flat Top Ace would be some good ones to check out

Ryan, I just bought a new Yamaha Sidewinder LTX-SE 137″ track. Doing my 500 mile break in, I found that the sled pushed through the corners. I wanted to start by replacing the stock carbides. The skis are stock dual runner skis. I’m an aggressive trail rider, 250 lbs. What size carbides? Same size, or different sizes for each the center and outside runners?

I have a 2012 f1100 snow pro snow cross limited white non turbo 4 stroke. Not sure what length carbide I should be running. I believe it has 4in duals on it right now. I’m a very aggressive rider in the corners and ride allot of trails. Basic 96 stud on 1.25 in lug track. I would like to continue ruining dual carbides.

I just purchased a 2021 Renegade Adrenaline 850…..1.25 inch lug….non studded. Thinking 6 inch Woodys Duallys …..thoughts ?

Factory is single 4 inch carbide…..I tend to drive aggressive at times


Hey there, I have a 2020 Polaris assault 144, came stock with a 1.6” lug upgraded to a 2” paddle track, I do 40% trail and the rest of trail; (even on trial I’m in the pow in the ditches etc) just looking for some more control in the heavy corners. I’m 150 pounds without my gear. I also add a fuel caddy to my sled.



I have an 06 Crossfire 600 sno pro. Running 162 studs. What length for single and dually carbides would you recommend? Ride groomed trails and lakes. Ridding style is more on the aggressive side.

Thank you

I have a 2012 GSX LE 600 e-tec with a studded track and looking to replace the carbides. I ride groomed trails and like to ride them aggressively when possible. What would recommend for a length and degree?

Just installed woody’s slim jim dooly 6″ on 2019 switchback adventure 800. Two studs to screw on to although the ski has 3 holes. They don’t fit right against the bottom of the ski (though might once I ride it) but the ends are securely in place as are the studs and screws. Can’t wait to try them as I ride fairy aggressive and have been pushing through the turns are speed due to stock 3″ carbides and almost no bar.

I got a 2004 skidoo mxz 600 adrenaline I ride trails that are packed and powder im amid aggressive rider I was told it has 4 incj and 6 inch combo on pilot skis should I keep that or go with just 4 or 6s

I have 2016 Yamaha viper with 2.6 lug on 153 track. I’m about an 80% packed groomed trail rider. Not very often I go into the deep stuff. What would you recommend for carbides. Right now I find the stock mountain skis hard to turn on groomed trails.

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