{"id":4236,"date":"2021-10-20T12:11:26","date_gmt":"2021-10-20T17:11:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.denniskirk.com\/?p=4236"},"modified":"2025-07-22T14:42:21","modified_gmt":"2025-07-22T19:42:21","slug":"choose-the-right-carbides","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.denniskirk.com\/blog\/2021\/10\/20\/choose-the-right-carbides\/","title":{"rendered":"Choosing the Right Carbides"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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There are multiple factors that can determine how your snowmobile will handle. The one that you might change the most often is your sled\u2019s traction. The right carbides<\/a> are crucial components of setting up your sled\u2019s traction correctly. Choose the wrong ones and you will be in for a not so pleasant ride and run the risk of getting in an accident. Getting the right wear bars goes beyond choosing the right brand.  Different sleds and riders will require varying lengths of carbides with different degree cutting angles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Choosing the right carbides will help give you better handling.<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n
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A common misconception about snowmobile carbides is that longer is always better. This, however, is absolutely not the case. When the length of the carbide is too long, the snowmobile skis will tend to dig in more than it should while you are cornering. This can cause the back end of the sled to break free and come around too quickly. For the average trail rider on a modern 121″-129\u2033 track sled with up to 96 studs and 1.0\u2033 lugs, a sharp set of 4 carbides offers the best balance of steering effort and bite.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When more studs are added and\/or the length of your track lugs increase, you will want to add longer carbides. With the added traction in the back and too short of carbides, the sled will tend to \u201cpush\u201d through on the corners. The skis will not get enough bite to change the direction of the sled fast enough in a corner. A 6\u2033 carbide is a solid match for sleds running 129\u2033\u2013137\u2033 tracks with 1.25\u2033 or smaller lugs or for 121\u2033 chassis equipped with more than 96 studs. The 6\u201d carbide length is also preferred for the intermediate riders who occasionally push their sleds to the limits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the sled is maxed out with studs, and\/or has a 144\u201d or longer track with paddles, an 8\u201d or longer carbide is acceptable. Also, if the rider is more than 200 pounds and rides aggressively, an 8\u201d or longer could be necessary. The harder that you ride your sled, the more carbide that you will need to get around the corners safely. Some solid choices in this category are the Woody’s Maverick, Woody’s Flat Top, and the Stud Boy Shaper Bars in the 8″-10″ lengths. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another misconception about carbide length is that the longer the carbide, the longer it will last. This really is not true because the full length of the carbide is making contact no matter the overall length. A 4\u201d will usually wear at the same rate as an 8\u201d or even 10\u201d carbide. Longevity improves more with a larger\u2011diameter or hard\u2011welded host bar than with extra carbide length.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The degree that the carbide is cut is also important to the longevity. A 60 degree cut will give you more bite when the carbides are new, but because more of the weight is focused on the point, it will wear out faster. A 90 degree carbide will not give you as much bite when new, but will last much longer and give you the best traction in the long run. A 60 degree carbide should really only be used in race conditions where the sled is being pushed to the limits over a short period of time. For a compromise, some brands now offer 75-80 degree carbides that split the difference between the extremes. These are not as common, but do exist.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Darting is an issue that a lot of snowmobilers face. Longer carbides can sometimes solve this issue, but it usually is not the correct solution. Brands like Woody\u2019s<\/a> and Stud Boy<\/a> have developed dual-runner or double bar wear bars that have two rows of carbide per wear bar. The Woody’s Dooly and Slim Jim 2.0 are popular options. The theory is that these wear rods will carve out their own paths instead of diving into a singular path that was already created, which can cause darting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The same theory can be applied to skis equipped to handle multiple wear bars, like the Ski-Doo Pilot skis or some aftermarket options. A tactic with this setup is to add a shaper\u2011style 60\u00b0 bar in the center of the ski paired with 90\u00b0 carbides on the outside for reduced darting. The 90\u00b0 outside edges help reduce darting by limiting side bite, allowing the sled to track straighter in existing grooves. The 60\u00b0 center bar offers deeper penetration and more precise bite on icy corners, giving the rider better control during aggressive turns.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Darting is not always caused by the carbides, though. Your ski pressure and ski alignment can be adjusted to help solve darting as well and should be checked first.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

These, of course, are just general guidelines to follow to find the right carbides. Applications will vary due to size of the rider, the aggressiveness of the rider, the snowmobile\u2019s setup (number of studs, track and lug length, and ski pressure) and type of terrain that you will be riding on. For more information and recommendations, you can contact Dennis Kirk\u2019s Tech team at technicalservice@denniskirk.com<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

There are multiple factors that can determine how your snowmobile will handle. The one that you might change the most often is your sled\u2019s traction. The…<\/p>\n

Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":9396,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_angie_page":false,"page_builder":"","_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[926,882,885,884],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-4236","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-homepage-right","8":"category-snowmobile-how-tos","9":"category-snowmobile-reviews","10":"category-snowmobile-tips"},"yoast_head":"\nChoosing the Right Carbides - Dennis Kirk<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.denniskirk.com\/blog\/2021\/10\/20\/choose-the-right-carbides\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Choosing the Right Carbides\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"There are multiple factors that can determine how your snowmobile will handle. The one that you might change the most often is your sled\u2019s traction. 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